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Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item: http://ntour.ntou.edu.tw:8080/ir/handle/987654321/5583

Title: 川芎、細辛、白朮及杏仁萃取物之美白與抗老化效果與含此等萃取物之化妝品的有效性
Anti-aging and whitening efficacy of the extracts of Ligusticum chuanxiong Hort, Asarum heterotropoides, Atractylodes macrocephala Koidz, and Prunus armeniaca and the cosmetics containing those extracts
Authors: Ywan-Ku Fan
范元鵠
Contributors: NTOU:Department of Food Science
國立臺灣海洋大學:食品科學系
Keywords: 白朮;細辛;川芎;杏仁
Date: 2005
Issue Date: 2011-06-22T08:35:44Z
Abstract: drhfgdgf摘 要 本論文的研究目的是探討細辛、川芎、白朮、杏仁四種中藥材之抗老化與美白功效。希望藉由科學的實驗方法以不同萃取方式和濃度進行抗老化及美白試驗後,找出較有效的組別;來評估這些藥材不同溶劑與濃度的萃取液在抗老化與美白上的功效,期望開發出具多方面美容效果之中藥複方化妝品。 實驗分為二個部分:1.萃取物之抗老化與美白能力評估;抗老化能力評估分兩大方向作探討:一為自由基之捕捉效應,二為螯合亞鐵離子能力。美白能力之評估為抑制酪胺酸酶活性之評估。結果顯示在清除自由基效果上,川芎、細辛效果較好;螯合亞鐵離子能力方面,以杏仁、細辛表現較優;在酪胺酸酶活性抑制試驗中,以川芎、杏仁的效果較好。 找出抗老化與美白能力較好的藥材組是:純水萃取物濃度2%的白朮、50%酒精萃取物濃度2%的杏仁、95%酒精萃取物濃度1%的川芎、95%酒精萃取物濃度1%的細辛,再進行含中藥萃取物活力滋養霜的製作與安定、安全特性的探討及人體有效性試驗。安定性試驗結果顯示經超音波震盪五分鐘後無相分離現象,在50℃高溫儲存一個月、循環變溫儲存一個月及經過3000 rpm離心30分後皆無相分離現象產生。安全性試驗結果顯示塗抹後皮膚pH值都在5.26~5.85之間,與人體皮膚pH值接近,Draize score評分都是0,表示不會有皮膚過敏現象發生,也不會對皮膚產生紅腫情形。保水性實驗結果顯示含川芎萃取物濃度1%組對皮膚保水力效果較佳。皮膚彈性實驗結果發現塗抹含中藥萃取物製成的活力滋潤霜,皆會使皮膚彈性R2值上升,且效果持續。皮膚彈性R8值之影響實驗結果,顯示出塗抹含中藥萃取物製成的活力滋潤霜對皮膚彈性R8值也有明顯且持續的效果。在20 ±1℃、RH 60 ± 1 %下,塗抹含中藥萃取物之活力滋潤霜兩小時內對皮膚pH之影響實驗結果,發現效果並不十分明顯。皮膚美白試驗結果,發現塗抹含中藥萃取物製成的活力滋潤霜對皮膚黑色素都有明顯且持續的改善效果。
Abstract The aims of this study are to explore the effect of four Chinese herb (Ligusticum chuanxiong Hort, Atractylodes macrocephala Koidz, Prunus armeniaca L, Asarum heterotropoides Fr.) on anti-age and whitening effects in vitro and the stability, safety, and efficacy of the creams contains those extracts. The in vitro study includes two parts. The first part is to evaluate the effectiveness of the extracts on anti-age via scavenging the DPPH radical and chelating the ferrous ion and the second part is to evaluate whitening effect via the tryosinase inhibitory activity. The results show that Ligusticum chuanxiong Hort and Asarum heterotropoides Fr are better on scavenging DPPH radical. Asarum heterotropoides Fr. Prunus armeniaca L. are out perform on chelating ferrous ions, whereas Prunus armeniaca L. Ligusticum chuanxiong Hort. are more effective on tryosinase inhibitory activity. The bettering in vitro activity of 2% of water extracts of Atractylodes macrocephala Koidz , 2% of 50% ethanol extracts of Prunus armeniaca L., 2% of 95﹪ethanol extracts of Asarum heterotropoides Fr. and 2% of 95﹪ethanol extract of Ligusticum chuanxiong Hort. are used in the creams formula. Stability tests show no separation after 5 minute supersonic vibration, one month storage in a 50 °C chamber, or in a cyclic temperatures of 25→50 →4 °C, or centrifuging at 3000 rpm for 30 min. The safety tests show skin pH did not change signifrcant from normal human skin pH. Draize score are zero, which indicates no allergy or redness is detected. The water holding capacity test show the creams containing 1% Ligusticum chuanxiong Hort extract performs the best. The skin elasticity tests show that after applying the cream containing Chinese herb extract, R2 value increased, and the effect lasts for a considerably period of time, R8 value also rised significantly and last. However, no significant changes on skin pH value were observed under the condition of 20 ± 1℃, RH 60 ± 1 %. The results of whitening tests all show satisfying and lasting improvement.
URI: http://ethesys.lib.ntou.edu.tw/cdrfb3/record/#G0T91420015
http://ntour.ntou.edu.tw/ir/handle/987654321/5583
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