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Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item: http://ntour.ntou.edu.tw:8080/ir/handle/987654321/51984

Title: Data-Driven and Theoretical Beach Equilibrium Profiles: Implications and Consequences
Authors: Grzegorz Różyński
Jaw-Guei Lin
Contributors: 國立臺灣海洋大學:河海工程學系
Date: 2015-05
Issue Date: 2019-01-10T03:50:50Z
Publisher: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Abstract: Abstract: This paper presents a concept of data-driven beach equilibrium profiles of cross-shore seabed records from the coastal station of Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego Polskiej Akademii Nauk at Lubiatowo, Poland, where multiple longshore bars are present. Data-driven equilibrium profiles are the monotonic trends of cross-shore seabed profiles. They were extracted using the empirical mode decomposition method. They retain general properties of Dean profiles, i.e., the Dean coefficients fitted to raw profiles are practically identical to those fitted to their trends. The monotonic property of trends allows for the introduction of cross-shore variable wave-energy dissipation rates, which can be compared with the constant Dean rates. This is the novel element of data-driven beach equilibrium profiles. Variable rates help indicate locations on a beach where wave-energy dissipation is intensive and produces erosion and where it is lower and generates deposition of sediment. In other words, variations of wave-energy dissipation can be assessed with greater precision from seabed configuration only, without any hydrodynamic information. Importantly, when a local wave climate is known, the associated depths of closure can be evaluated to determine the offshore limits, where the data-driven beach equilibrium profile concept can be valid.
Relation: 141(5)
URI: http://ntour.ntou.edu.tw:8080/ir/handle/987654321/51984
Appears in Collections:[河海工程學系] 期刊論文

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