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Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item: http://ntour.ntou.edu.tw:8080/ir/handle/987654321/50696

Title: A parabolic equation extended to account for rapidly varying topography
Authors: Tai-Wen Hsu
Chih-Chung Wen
Contributors: 國立臺灣海洋大學:河海工程學系
Keywords: Rapidly varying topography
Extended time-dependent parabolic mild-slope equation
Wave reflection
Date: 2001-11
Issue Date: 2018-10-22T02:05:40Z
Publisher: ocean engineering
Abstract: Abstract: In this paper, following the procedure outlined by Li (1994. An evolution equation for water waves. Coastal Engineering, 23, 227-242) and Hsu and Wen (2000. A study of using parabolic model to describe wave breaking and wide-angle wave incidence. Journal of the Chinese Institute of Engineers, 23(4), 515–527) and Hsu and Wen (2000) the extended refraction–diffraction equation is recasted into a time-dependent parabolic equation. This model, which includes higher-order bottom effect terms, is extended to account for a rapidly varying topography and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone. The importance of the higher-order bottom effect terms is examined in terms of the relative water depth. The present model was tested for wave reflection in a number of different environments, namely from a plane slope with different inclinations, from a patch of periodic ripples. The model was also tested for wave height distribution around a circular shoal and wave breaking on a barred beach. The comparison of predictions with other numerical models and experimental data show that the validity of the present model for describing wave propagation over a rapidly varying seabed is satisfactory.
Relation: 28(11) pp.1479-1498
URI: http://ntour.ntou.edu.tw:8080/ir/handle/987654321/50696
Appears in Collections:[河海工程學系] 期刊論文

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