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Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item: http://ntour.ntou.edu.tw:8080/ir/handle/987654321/30779

Title: 台俄雙邊國合計畫-台灣與俄羅斯海域之異常波浪研究
Freak Wave Study in Taiwanese and Russian Waters
Authors: 董東璟;蔡政翰;陳冠宇;蔡仁智
Contributors: NTOU:Department of Marine Environmental Informatics
Date: 2011-08
Issue Date: 2012-04-13T01:44:51Z
Publisher: 行政院國家科學委員會
Abstract: 摘要:異常波浪(freak wave 或稱 rogue wave)是指海上突然發生的波浪,通常是指超過兩倍示性波高的突發性波浪,它的出現具有瞬態性,對海上航行船隻與海洋活動造成很大危害,若它發生在近岸,就是我們俗稱的瘋狗浪,對於海邊活動民眾的安全造成威脅。本計畫的科學目的是在於增進對出現在實際海洋的異常波浪的瞭解,並嘗試以數值理論來對於異常波浪的出現進行模擬。本計畫採用的研究方法包含了台灣海域與俄羅斯海域現場實測資料的分析,與數值模式的建立、驗證與模擬。統計方法方面,本計畫採用極端統計理論、波譜分析方法包含小波分析與Hilbert轉換以及逆散射法(inverse scattering method);至於數值模擬技術則是基於非線性演化方程式,包含KdV(Korteweg‐de Vries)方程式、非線性薛丁格(Shrodinger)方程式、Dysthe方程式以及其變形,和非線性尤拉方程式等。本計畫為一個三年期的台俄雙邊合作計畫。第一年的主要工作是實測異常波浪的分析,包含太平洋(台灣)、鄂霍次克海(俄羅斯)、台灣海峽(台灣)與波羅的海(俄羅斯)現場觀測資料,這些不同水深、海域環境、不同量測儀器的觀測數據讓本計畫可以研究不同條件下的異常波浪特性,除此之外,本計畫還將收集文獻中記載各海域的異常波浪特性,嘗試建立全球異常波浪分類圖集。計畫第二年度則從事實測異常波浪單波的統計與波譜特性,異常波浪的相位譜有助於瞭解其生成機制,而波形與譜形則是數值模擬理論裡的重要參考。計畫第三年則挑選出各海域典型的異常波浪案例,作為數值方法模擬驗證的對象,修正後的數值模式將用來模擬異常波浪的生成與演變。台灣團隊在本計畫中主要承擔現場實測異常波浪資料的分析,包含統計特性、能譜特性與單波波形等,團隊中陳冠宇教授則利用非線性演化方程式模擬異 常波浪的生成。至於俄羅斯團隊則以理論推導與數值模擬為主。結合現場觀測與數值模擬的合作可能讓我們在異常波浪的研究中獲得新的發現,有助於更加瞭解異常波浪的生成機制,這對於未來從事異常波浪預測的目標將能提供具體的貢獻。
Abstract:Freak or rogue waves are the abnormal waves with a height exceeding twice or more the significant wave height; they appear on the sea surface only for a short time. Freak waves have high impacts on ships in the ocean as well as offshore and coastal structures. They are also a hazard to the people at the coast. The scientific goal of this project is to understand the characteristics of the real freak waves in the ocean and try to simulate them in order to know the mechanisms of the generation of freak waves. The main methods and approaches supposed to be used are based on in‐situ measurements conducted in Taiwanese and Russian waters. The analysis of the data from both the Taiwanese and Russian partners will be performed with tools of mathematical statistics including methods of extreme statistics, spectral methods, wavelet analysis, Hilbert transform and inverse scattering method. For the numerical modeling of wave propagation in basins of various water depth a set of numerical codes will be used, which is based on the nonlinear evolution equations: Korteweg‐de Vries equation, nonlinear Shrodinger equation, Dysthe equation and its generalizations, and fully nonlinear Euler equations. This is a three‐year project. In the first year of the project, collection and data analysis of freak wave events in the field will be carried out. Field data include those from the Pacific Ocean (Taiwan), the Sea of Okhotsk (Russia), the Taiwan Strait (Taiwan) and the Baltic Sea (Russia). Extensive database makes this project possible to study comprehensively on the characteristics of field freak waves. In addition, cataloguing of the world freak waves events on the basis of the published data will also be carried out in the first year. During the second year of the project, the development of theoretical and numerical models for describing freak wave events for different weather conditions is planned. They include the freak wave modeling in deep water and the freak wave evolution in shallow water. Statistical and spectral properties of individual freak wave will be studied. They are useful information for the simulation and verification of numerical model in the third year of the project. In the third year, the typical freak wave events will be culled and numerical techniques will be applied to study the freak wave formation based on probable conditions. In the project, the participants of Taiwan group mainly work on the in‐situ freak wave analysis except Prof. Chen who will work on numerical simulations. The Russian partners mainly work on theoretical derivation and numerical simulation, together with the analysis of field data from the Sea of Okhotsk and Baltic Sea. Collaboration on field data study and numerical simulation make it possible to have new discoveries. By the joint works between Russian and Taiwanese research groups, the statistical and spectral properties of freak waves will be better understood. The field freak wave events are help to develop/modify numerical models. Validated numerical models have capability to simulate correctly the formation of freak waves. This brings contribution for freak wave forecast in the future.
Relation: NSC100-2923-M019-001
URI: http://ntour.ntou.edu.tw/handle/987654321/30779
Appears in Collections:[海洋環境資訊系] 研究計畫

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