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Group Waves and Dangerous Waves at the Coast
Cheng-Han Tsai;Yin-Chern Lin;Hsiang-Mao Tseng
|Contributors: ||NTOU:Department of Marine Environmental Informatics|
Correlation coefficient for consecutive wave heights;mean run length
|Issue Date: ||2011-10-20T08:23:20Z
|Abstract: ||摘要:近幾年來瘋狗浪漸受媒體重視，但學界一直對於瘋狗浪是什麼無法下定論。本文根據親身體會過所謂瘋狗浪者之描述及瘋狗浪事件發生時之天氣狀況，認為瘋狗浪應該是於海象不佳時，如有颱風過境或強烈季風吹襲時，發生於水深約十米以上且海底坡度大之防波堤或礁石上之大浪，因在此種地方大浪可長驅直入打上岸來。另本文恰有1998年9月楊妮颱風過境時基隆和平島發生一瘋狗浪落海事件時於其外海僅500米外之波浪資料，經分析發現在事件發生時相鄰波之波高相關係數與平均連長(mean run length)皆顯著升高，意味著當時之群波特別顯著。|
abstract:Many fishermen lost their lives to the dangerous waves occurred at the coast. This article attempts to clarify "What are these dangerous waves?" by interviewing survivors of the incidents and investigations of the sites where these waves occurred. It was found that these waves were huge waves occurred in high sea states during passages of Typhoons or in the severe monsoon weather. The common features of the sites are that they are breakwaters or rocky shores located in the depths of more than 10 meter. Their coastal bathymetry also has a steep slope. With these two conditions, the huge waves can advance directly onto the shore without breaking and without dissipating their energy. Furthermore, based on the wave data recorded during the September 1998 Typhoon Yani, at which time a fatal incident occurred on the Ho-Ping Island, Keelung. The data were collected just 500m offshore the incident site. This wave data showed significant increase of the correlation coefficient for consecutive wave heights and mean run length at the time of the fatal incidence. This means that there might be a correlation between these dangerous waves and group waves.
|Relation: ||1(1), pp.71-82|
|Appears in Collections:||[海洋環境資訊系] 期刊論文|
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