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Title: 黃香楝之抗老化與美白有效性評估
Evaluation of anti-aging and whitening efficacy of Hesperethusa crenulata (Roxb.) Roem.
Authors: Yi-Chun Pan
潘怡君
Contributors: NTOU:Department of Food Science
國立臺灣海洋大學:食品科學系
Keywords: 黃香楝;美白;抗老化;黑色素
Hesperethusa crenulata;whitening;anti-aging;melanin
Date: 2008
Issue Date: 2011-06-30T08:09:19Z
Abstract: 本研究的目的在探討緬甸常見藥用植物黃香楝(Hesperethusa crenulata (Roxb.) Roem)在抗老化與美白化妝品上的有效性。在抗老化化學性試驗方面,於濃度範圍1-10 mg/mL不論是清除DPPH、超氧陰離子及過氧化氫上,黃香楝心材萃取物的抗氧化能力比樹皮萃取物佳。在美白化學性試驗方面,則以樹皮萃取物的酪胺酸酶活性抑制效果較心材萃取物佳。在細胞株試驗方面,黃香楝心材萃取物及樹皮萃取物於1-1000 μg/mL時,都有促進纖維母細胞 CCD-966SK 增生及膠原蛋白生成的效果。而對於黑色素腫瘤細胞 A375的影響,樹皮萃取物於濃度超過 125 μg/mL以上時,其存活率開始有下降趨勢,而心材萃取物即使濃度達1000 μg/mL,對其存活率仍無影響。此外,樹皮及心材萃取物皆具有抑制黑色素腫瘤細胞生成黑色素的效果,以樹皮萃取物濃度為500 μg/mL時,對於UV-A照射後之黑色素腫瘤細胞生成黑色素可達到90 %的抑制效果。以黃香楝萃取物濃度1 %之乳霜試製品具有良好之安定性及皮膚安全性,而人體有效性試驗中,10位受試者塗抹含黃香楝萃取物乳霜5週後,其皮膚黑色素、鱗片度及皺紋度指標值有明顯降低趨勢,且均未出現皮膚刺激性或過敏現象。上述實驗結果證實,黃香楝之心材及樹皮萃取物不但具有顯著的抗老化與美白功效,未來更具有開發為功能性化妝品上之潛力。
Hesperethusa crenulata (Roxb.) Roem (family Rutaceae), a plant of traditional cosmetics in myanmar, is claimed to exert anti-aging and whitening efficacy. The antioxidant activity and whiting efficacy of H. crenulata stem bark extract and heart wood extract were evaluated by chemical tests, mushroom tyrosinase inhibition test and cultured melanocytes. H. crenulata heart wood extract (from 1 to 10 mg/mL) was superior to stem bark extract in scavenging effect on hydrogen peroxide , superoxide, DPPH free radicals. However, the inhibitory effect on mushroom tyrosinase showed that H. crenulata stem bark extract was superior to heart wood extract. Both extracts (from 1 to 1,000 μg/mL) increased CCD-966SK fibroblasts proliferation and collagen generation. In MTT test H. crenulata stem bark extract (above 125 μg/mL) decreased the viability of A375 human melanocytes, while heart wood extract (1,000 μg/mL) had no cytotoxic effect. Additionally, the inhibition effect by protecting from UV-A radiation was observed H. crenulata stem bark extract (500 μg/mL) decreased melanin formation by A375 cell by 90 %. Furthermore, the cosmetics cream products containing 1% H. crenulata stem bark or heart wood extract were with high stability and safety. Ten subjects applying the cream products significantly decreased in skin melanin, scaliness index, wrinkles index and melanin formation during five weeks test period, and none of them was observed skin irritability or allergy during test period. In conclusion, these results indicate that H. crenulata stem bark extract and heart wood extract have good anti-aging and whitening efficacy, and could be a potential ingredient to be applied in functional cosmetics in the future.
URI: http://ethesys.lib.ntou.edu.tw/cdrfb3/record/#G0T95420003
http://ntour.ntou.edu.tw/ir/handle/987654321/15243
Appears in Collections:[食品科學系] 博碩士論文

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