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Title: 黑木耳水萃物在化妝品應用的可行性評估
The feasibility of applying water extracts of Auricularia polytricha on skin care cosmetics
Authors: Hui-Ling Chen
陳慧苓
Contributors: NTOU:Department of Food Science
國立臺灣海洋大學:食品科學系
Keywords: 黑木耳;化妝品;抗氧化;美白
Auricularia polytricha;cosmetics;anti-aging;whitening
Date: 2008
Issue Date: 2011-06-30T08:03:07Z
Abstract: 本研究的目的是探討黑木耳水萃物應用在抗氧化與美白化妝品的可行性評估。本研究分三部分:1. 探討黑木耳水萃物抗氧化及美白效果評估包含清除DPPH自由基效果、還原能力、清除超氧陰離子能力、亞鐵離子螯合能力和抑制酪胺酸酶能力的測定,2. 細胞培養方法觀察黑木耳水萃物對於人類皮膚纖維母細胞 CCD -966SK 及人類黑色素腫瘤細胞 A375的存活率影響及促進膠原蛋白合成與抑制黑色素形成的能力,3. 探討含黑木耳水萃物化妝品製造與特性包括安定性、安全性、皮膚保水性、皮膚彈性、美白度。得到的結果如下: 抗氧化效果經體外試驗顯示:不同濃度(0.1、0.25、0.5、1.0 mg/ml四種濃度)的黑木耳水萃物之抗氧化能力均隨濃度增加而提高。清除DPPH自由基效果上,以濃度1.0%放置90分鐘的清除效果達65.4%為最佳。螯合亞鐵離子能力,當濃度為1.0%的螯合能力超過70%。在濃度0.5 mg/ml下,具有最佳37.7%的酪胺酸酶活性抑制率。 細胞試驗結果黑木耳水萃物於濃度≧62.5 µg/ml會抑制人類皮膚纖維母細胞CCD-966SK 存活率。促進人類皮膚纖維母細胞CCD-966SK細胞合成膠原蛋白的量隨細胞存活率降低而減少,其合成均比控制組(添加Vitamin C)要高。在黑色素的抑制率方面,當黑木耳水萃物的濃度≧31 µg/ml會降低人類黑色素腫瘤細胞A375的存活率,當黑木耳水萃物在濃度1000 µg/ml對人類黑色素腫瘤細胞A375 形成黑色素的抑制率達57%為最佳。 含或不含黑木耳水萃取物之乳霜製劑之安定性,經135 W、42 KHZ、50℃條件下超音波震盪5分鐘,以及3000 rpm、 25℃條件下離心30分鐘後皆不會發生相分離,並可在50℃中靜置貯存2 個月以上皆可維持正常不變質,於室溫下靜置為期2個月其pH 變化並不明顯,顯示出該產品具有良好的安定性。 含黑木耳水萃物之乳霜pH值在4.8-6.0之間,使用含黑木耳水萃物之乳霜製劑後不會有皮膚紅腫現象產生。塗抹含黑木耳水萃物組較控制組(不含黑木耳水萃物)對皮膚保水性之效果要好,且4週後對皮膚之彈性值R2有增加之情形。在對皮膚美白效果上塗抹含黑木耳水萃物之乳霜製劑4週後,黑色素指標值有降低。
The objectives of the study are to explore the feasibility of applying water extracts of Auricularia polytricha on skin care cosmetics. The study includes 1. To evaluate the efficacy of anti-aging and whitening of Auricularia polytricha water extracts by observation the scavenging capacity of DPPH radical, reducing power, scavenging effects on superoxide radical, chelating effects on ferrous ions and tyrosinase inhibition. 2. Determining cells viability, collagen formation of the cultured fibroblast, and melanin inhibity of the cultured melanocyte. 3. To prepare and characterize the cream containing Auricularia polytricha water extracts. The characteristics of cream studied including storage stability, the safety of the products, water holding capacity, the skin elasticity, the skin whitening. The results obtained are: Scavenging capacity of DPPH radical, reducing power, scavenging effects on superoxide radical, chelating effects on ferrous ions increased with increasing the concentration of Auricularia polytricha water extracts. The 1 mg/ml water extracts had the highest ( 65.4%) DPPH scavenging effect after 90 min. The 1 mg /ml water extracts showed more than 70% chelating effects on ferrous ions. It showed 37.7% tyrosinase inhibitory activity at 1 mg/ml. Cell viability results showed the water extracts concentration ≧ 62.5 µg/ml inhibition on CCD-966SK viability. Auricularia polytricha water extracts enhanced higher collagen formation of CCD-966SK than that of the control (no Auricularia polytricha water extracts) and collagen increased with increasing the viability of CCD-966SK after growth for 48 hr. Auricularia polytricha water extracts inhibition on A375 viability at concentration ≧ 31 µg/ml and 57% inhibition on melanin content of A375 at 1000 µg/ml. Cosmetic product containing with or without Auricularia polytricha water extracts were stable for sonication (135 W, 42 KHz, 5 min), for centrifuging (3000 rpm, 30 min), and for more than two months high temperature (50℃) storage. The pH of cream did not change significantly. These results showed that cream had good stability. PH of cream containing Auricularia polytricha water extracts are between 4.8-6.0. The safety test resulted in no erythema based on the daize score test. Water holding capacity in terms of electrical capacitance increase ratio were higher for these containing Auricularia polytricha water extracts than that of the control. Skin elasticity (R2) for those whom have applied the cream containing Auricularia polytricha water extracts increased over time during four weeks test period. Skin whitening increased over time during four weeks test period.
URI: http://ethesys.lib.ntou.edu.tw/cdrfb3/record/#G0T94420015
http://ntour.ntou.edu.tw/ir/handle/987654321/15133
Appears in Collections:[Department of Food Science] Dissertations and Theses

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