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Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item: http://ntour.ntou.edu.tw:8080/ir/handle/987654321/11970

Title: 有限水深碎波波譜
Breaking Wave Spectra for Finite Water Depth
Authors: 董啟超;楊文衡
Contributors: NTOU:Department of Harbor and River Engineering
國立臺灣海洋大學:河海工程學系
Keywords: 碎波波譜;水深有限;隨機波
Breaking wave spectrum;Finite water depth;Random wave
Date: 1992-07
Issue Date: 2011-06-29T01:37:20Z
Publisher: 行政院國家科學委員會
Abstract: 摘要:隨機波(不規則波)碎波波譜在有限水深斜坡海 床上變化情況.碎波條件是修正Battjes所使用窄譜 的碎波條件,使其能運用到有限譜寬的情形.深水 未碎波之振幅波譜是假設定常性,零平均值及高 斯分佈之波譜(Phillips, 1977).隨機(紛紜)碎波波譜 的近似表示式經由本計畫而推導出來.碎波波譜 的數值以圖形表示出在不同水深的淺化及碎波情 況,並且對不同風速的深水波譜淺化碎波情形加 以比較.本計畫以高斯分佈,零平均值定常過程的原始波 浪振幅為基礎,配合波浪淺化及Michell的碎波條件, 代入有限譜寬的計算方式,推導出經由淺化及碎 波後的平均水位,再以StochasticMethod推導出碎波後 的平均水位之mean Square值並導出平均水位, .eta. / sub 1/及.eta. /sub 2/(.eta. /sub 1/及.eta. /sub 2/eta 2)的 autoCorrelation Function及波譜型式.其中Set-up值在碎波後平均水位為未知值,故平均 水位方程式是Function of unknown,故最後導出auto correlation function of .eta. /sub1/及.eta. /sub 2/時,也是 Set-up的未知函數,故波譜型式(碎波及淺化後的波 譜)也是Set-up的未知函數.因此這部分也是修正本人(1991)年的研究,加以改進部分.但這部分是以 Function ofUnknown,也就是碎波波譜中的Auto Correlation 中所含的Set-up值,必須以疊代法求出,也就是要解 碎波波譜的解析值一定要以數值方法求出.
abstract:A method is introduced to investigate the effect of wave nonlinearity on various statistical properties of a random wave train propagating from deep to shallow water including mean water level variation and taking into consideration wave breaking. Based on this study, it is concluded that the influence of wave nonlinearity is limited to shoaling region and is overpowered by the wave breaking phenomenon in surf zone. As a consequence, it is suggested that, in surf zone, linear wave theory may provide reasonably accurate results for the statistical properties of waves considered.
Relation: NSC82-0403-E019-001
URI: http://ntour.ntou.edu.tw/ir/handle/987654321/11970
Appears in Collections:[河海工程學系] 研究計畫

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